Easy Concrete Paths for Your Garden and Driveway

Concrete is a construction material that is cheap, versatile and easy to use. Concrete pathways are ideal for safe and durable access for the garden, or on or beside your driveway.

If you are a competent DIYer, or general tradesman a concrete path is an easy, and fast way to create order. With just a few tools and a decent plan it’s a project that most of us can get finished in a weekend.

Here are our steps to making a concrete path for your garden or other project.

Planning a Concrete Path

Most battles are won or lost at the planning stage. Likewise, with any kind of project. You have to be sure of what you want to do, how you’re going to do it, and what you’re going to need.

Some paths are easier than others. A straight path alongside a property almost sets itself out. Another, more creative plan may call for string lines to describe a curve, but that’s the beauty of concrete pathways.

The versatility of concrete means that your imagination can run wild, and you’re only really limited by the dimensions of a garden, or area that requires a path.

Is Concrete the Cheap Option?

Concrete garden paths are more cost effective than pavers, slabs or blocks, but are perfect for use as the main pathway, with cobbles or edging kerbs. The cost of concrete is lower, even when you factor in hardcore, sand blinding, a vapour barrier, reinforced steel, shuttering and mixer hire or purchase.

The fact is that labour costs, when also factored in, deliver even greater value, as a concrete path can be built by just one person. Obviously, any project is more fun with two of you, but the skill level required is lower than someone trained to lay pavers.

How Much Concrete Do I Need for a Path?

If maths isn’t your strong point, don’t worry, it doesn’t need to be. For a straight path that is designed for light use, pedestrian access only, then the maths is pretty simple.

How Many 20kg Bags of Concrete Will I Need?

A cubic metre of concrete translates to about 100 bags of readymix from the builder’s merchant. Keep this in mind when working out whether to go for a delivery by concrete mixer or making it up yourself with a Belle Mixer on site.

For smaller path works it might make sense to order a half pallet of readymix concrete, but for most projects, a delivery of sand, cement, and aggregate will be the preferred choice. It gives you flexibility on a bigger job to choose according to the weather, and available manpower.

Light Duty Concrete Path

Let’s say you want a seven-metre path to connect the front of your house to the back. The width, from wall to fence is 1200mm, and the ground is firm, without obstructions, drains or service covers. In this case you could get away with a concrete depth of just 75mm.

The maximum width recommended would be 1m, to allow a 100mm gap on either side. This is an essential consideration to allow clearance for any airbricks in the wall of the house that provide under-floor ventilation. It also ensures that the damp proof course is not compromised.

The maths is simple here; 7m x 1m x 0.075m = 0.525, or just over half a cubic metre of concrete. Add 10% for contingency (it always gets used) and you will need to order up 0.6 of a cubic metre. Visualising 60 bags of concrete gives you a good grasp of the quantity of material required.

Standard Duty Concrete Path

For a path on poorer ground, or one that may need to support frequent loads, such as a motorbike, or wheelbarrows filled with materials, a four-inch-thick (100mm) concrete path is recommended. It is the standard specification in most cases, and architects and engineers will rarely call for less.

Using the aforementioned example, the quantity of concrete required will increase by 25% to 0.7 of a cubic metre. Add 10% and you should expect to use 0.8 m3, or the equivalent of 80 bags.

Heavy Duty Concrete Path

If your concrete pathway is adjacent to, or perhaps is to be used as an extension to a driveway, you will require the same amount of concrete as for a standard duty path. The difference when building in concrete for heavier duty applications, is the addition of reinforcing mesh.

Mesh, steel fabric, or rebar delivers tensile strength to concrete and helps it to support heavier imposed loads from vehicles, vans, trucks or recreational vehicles. Commercial delivery yards will often have much thicker concrete with designed rebar cages.

If in doubt, for a standard driveway, it’s always sensible to plan to use more concrete, rather than try to save. And always use reinforcing mesh to give yourself the confidence that it will stand up to traffic.

What do I Need to Install a Concrete Path?

A concrete path can be put together with a minimum basic collection of tools and materials that most gardeners and handy DIYers will already have in reach;

•  A shovel, spade and a robust wheelbarrow are essential, also a string line, mallet, spirit level and woodworking tools

• A strong gravel rake is a great option when spreading the concrete

• Make up a tamper with some scrap timber to help eliminate air pockets and compact the aggregate

•  For larger projects consider using a Belle type concrete mixer

• When finishing the concrete path, a plaster float is perfect for smoothing

• Use a brush, roller or concrete pattern stamper to provide better traction, and/or looks (concrete can be very utilitarian in a residential setting)

Materials Required for a Concrete Pathway

• The path will need to be edged with timber boards and pegs to retain the concrete during the pour and the curing process while the concrete is still ‘green’ and liable to damage

• A vapour barrier to retain concrete and stop contamination

• Polythene protection for grass or planting, and to lay under ply boards on which the concrete mixer is placed

• Make sure there is good access to water, either with a hose, or a container that either has a tap, or can be accessed with a bucket

How to Install a Concrete Pathway

1. Decide where the level of the path needs to be and dig down at least five inches, 125mm, to expose the subsoil. In most cases you should go down at least 6 inches, 150mm, to make room for small aggregate hardcore and sand blinding.

2. I would take the opportunity to dig out any invasive roots or make good any soft spots, while taking care to remove any green matter. Add the hardcore and make sure it is tamped and compressed before blinding (covering) with a layer of sand.

3. Fit shuttering to both sides and the ends of the pathway. Level the top of the boards and make sure they are level along their length as well as across. If your path is next to a house it may be a good idea to build in a gentle slope from the building so rainwater runs away.

4. Install a DPM or vapour barrier on top of the sand blinding. It helps to keep the concrete where you want it, stopping it from disappearing into the hardcore or through any joints, cracks or gaps in the shuttering.

5. Lay in the steel reinforcement mesh on top of plastic spacers, and pour the concrete, beginning at the furthest point from the mixing area and working back. Rake and tamp as you go, checking with the level to ensure the shuttering remains in place. If it does move, don’t panic, just knock in a few more pegs to hold it in place.

6. Tradies will tell you that floating the concrete is a fine art that needs to be timed just right, but there’s a broad window between too wet and too dry. If it’s too wet the trowel marks will show up too much, too dry and it won’t polish up. It’s not that difficult, just take your time and you’ll soon get the hang of it!

How Soon Can I Use my Concrete Path?

You should allow at least 24 hours for the concrete pathway to finish its initial curing period. To be safe, I would give it a minimum of 48 hours. Weather conditions play a part too. Curing occurs as a chemical reaction and via evaporation.

Take the shuttering away after three days to give the concrete a chance to dry out at the edges and loosen up. If it is too green it may crumble. If there is a problem and a repair is needed you can strike the shutter early to attend to it.

After 28 days your concrete path or driveway will have reached peak curing and hardness. The good news is it will likely be good for at least another fifty years!

Curing Concrete in All Weathers

At 20˚C or above the concrete may dry out too quickly. You can counter this by using a fine spray, however, this may weaken the surface of the concrete. I would spray it once, then protect it with a polythene sheet suspended over the path on timbers run alongside.

In cold weather, below 5˚C and falling, concrete isn’t a good idea. The mercury needs to be at least 5˚C and rising. Protect the concrete overnight with bricklayer’s hessian or polystyrene covered with polythene to keep any frost off.

Rain can be a pain. More than that, a disaster if you are going for a particularly fine finish with a textured roller or imprint. Always check the forecast, and if you cannot wait, ensure the surface, and work area is properly protected.

Concrete Safety

Cement can burn, so gloves are high on the list. Be sure to wear long trousers made from a tough material such as jeans and tuck them into boots impervious to water.

Mixing concrete can be dusty, whether you are shovelling material into a mixer or pouring readymix into a bucket, so I would recommend you wear an appropriate mask.

If you are having a concrete lorry turn up be sure to talk to the neighbours to head off any access issues. Parked cars in narrow streets can play havoc.

The big sites will insist on eye protection too, because cement dust in the eye will mean a trip to A&E. At the end of the day it’s just common sense, and no one ever got in trouble for playing too safe in construction.

Care and Maintenance of Concrete Paths and Driveways

The great thing about concrete paths and driveways is that they are virtually maintenance free. They take a jet wash well for removal of any green matter or moss growth, and usually only require a stiff brush to keep looking good.

Be careful when parking an older vehicle on a concrete driveway, or working with oil, or other lubricating fluids. Diesel, oil, and other hydrocarbons will stain concrete, penetrating deep into the surface, making it impossible to clean off.

How Wade Can Help

At Wade, we have a comprehensive stock of materials required for every size of project, from timber to steel, mixers to floats. Call our friendly, professional team today to discuss what you need, and how soon we can get it to your site.

FAQs

How do I measure a curved concrete path?

The easiest way to do this that I’ve seen, is to divide the entire area into metre squares using string, then count up the complete squares and roughly add in the part squares.

How much does it cost to pour a concrete path?

The cost of a concrete path should be budgeted for at between £40 to £50 per square metre.

How thick does a concrete path need to be?

The standard thickness for a concrete pathway is 100mm, or four inches.

Can I lay concrete direct to the ground?

If the ground is solid and in good condition, free of soft spots and vegetation, you can. If the ground is dry, wet it the day before to stop it leaching water out of the concrete and making it crack.

However, for best results, protect and support the concrete with a layer of a minimum of 25mm of compressed hardcore and a vapour barrier.